Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Well, there were some errors with some of my recent spheres, but here is one from bilbao (some of the cool bridges and the guggenheim) and one from the trail

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Holaaaa!

Hello!!

The counting of the days of the week is definitely over for us.  

We flew into Stuttgart Germany  and after the longest wait ever we were able to  check into our hotel that was more a hostel in that we shared a bathroom with 4 other rooms,  there was no air conditioning and the windows opened up to the super fast and efficient metro.   Germany's coffee rated an 8 on my scale though I'm not sure it was as high for Eli.  We figured out how to order beer and pizza and yes we did have a food ordering excitement!  This was the first of many for us so far.  When asked how big the pizzas are, the answer was Normal.  Well we thought splitting one would be good but somehow we ordered two. They were each huge.  After a night in Germany we decided not to go to the Mercedes or Porsche museums but instead get on the train to Paris.  The train was filled with crying babies and as so few people understood the seating number system it was a game of musical chairs on the other side of the table and throughout the cab. 

Once in Paris we decided we really needed at least two nights without a train.  Eli found us an amazing QUIET, and extremely parisian hotel with beautiful wood work and architectural interest.  I think at this point we began to recoup after the jet lag.  This first day, I took the reins, trying my French out.  We went out for coffee and muffins, needless to say, I got the muffins right but came back to Eli with a tray that had Peach Lemonade.  I'm not sure how this happened.   While in Paris we had lots of fun experiencing their antique looking metro that is super fast and visited the Notre Dame, Eiffel Tower, and Champs Elysee. The coffee was mediocre. I had always heard that the French are rather rude to Americans.  Having now been in Spain... I think there's just a different attitude.  They know English and seem to be frustrated with my attempts at French as it's much more easy for them to speak English.  In Spain,... they do not speak English and they do not try. 

Anyways back to France.  We hiked through a huge park, and figured out where the prostitute hangout is.  Once through the park we took a left and got to the campground just outside of Paris.  Here we had an amazing 3 cheese pizza.  I mean, I could eat 3 more just thinking about how good the melted cheese is.  I know you're thinking it's a cheese pizza, but it's not.... I mean it's crisp crusted with a strong tomatoe lathered in real cheese! Mozzarella, Brie and Roquefort(blue) I mean... when we get 3 cheese it's pretty generic!! This pizza was handmade from a food truck....  After the camping we relaxed and caught an easy train to Hendaye... which is the furthest south on Atlantic Ocean a French train will take you. It was 6 hours of vineyards and beautiful easy country.   From here we walked a couple km to the hotel. The croissants in Hendaye were way better than in Paris(we walked for an hour trying to find one and wasn't successful - so maybe I'm biased.).  I may not have said this but French bread is good!  Real croissants- like the real thing... are supposedly amazing. Interestingly enough it's apparent by watching the bakeries that not all bakeries actually make their own bread or croissants... but rather have them delivered or have the raw croissants delivered then bake them in the oven.  So what you're tasting from bakery to bakery is the same thing...   I realize this isn't that interesting... but when you don't eat a lot of buttery things... and the doors are all the sudden wide open,... and your grandmother gave you 5 books on making bread... and here you are!! The bread capital of the world!!! It gets pretty exciting when you get a good croissant.

From Hendaye we walked across the bridge into Spain.  No one asked us any questions at the bridge, there were no lines... nothing of a border. We went into a shop to get some cheese and bread for later in the day, and the language was an immediate change.  At this point we were in Irun.  We stopped at a cafeteria(you go up and order your food and its out quick, or you sit and it costs you a little more).  I ordered a  bocadillo with queso and Serrano.  We thought Serrano was a pepper of some sort. It's not.  It's cured ham - like wide cuts of bacon.  I didn't know how to say I don't eat meat(though I do now) so I ate it. Eli's got a picture somewhere.

From Irun we walked on to San Sebastian, A gorgeous town with so much history and excitement. The croissants and coffee were like a 9 at least on my scale.  In San Sebastian we lost each other for about 2 hours.  It was worrisome  but thankfully we both went backward/forward and found each other.  We hiked really late that day. And boy those hills were straight up and straight down.  But today, the hills were even steeper but the views so gorgeous.  You see, this Camino, it doesn't go by the church in the town's description, it doesn't go along the boardwalk with a view to the beach, no, it cuts in land and yes, it's beautiful, but it misses the excitement by 1-4 blocks every time.  The guidebook's maps aren't good enough to figure out where the church or beach is compared to your location.  I know you're thinking, you could just ask someone.... but not only do they only speak Spanish... but some of locals only speak Catalan. The streets and restaurants and everything is also written in Catalan... which is even more confusing.
So today, we decided we would take the alternate routes.  The first one was a ton better than the other option, but the second alternate, wow.  I was exhausted. I think Eli probably waited for me for at least 10 minutes once.  The trails aren't like American trails... they just go straight up or straight down.  Only twice was there a switchback.

Tomorrow we head to Bilbao and will hopefully get to the guggenheim museum.  After than we may skip the inland in section and head to the beach for the coastal walking again. 
Hope all is well elsewhere!!
EM!

Friday, June 5, 2015